The Long and Winding Road to Kintyre – a Golfing Destination!
Machrihanish courses are worth the journey
…so is the gem at Dunaverty
The aim was to get around 5 golf courses in Kintyre in 3 days! Throw in a few historic sights, some distillery tours, artisan producers, a few hundred miles driving, a ferry journey and it would be fair to say, it was going to be a tight squeeze!
OK… so, where are we heading?
Entering the Kintyre Peninsula, we faced torrential rain and wind speeds of 40-50 mph. The 3 day plan looked shaky from the start but this weather wasn’t forecast to last for long.
The harbour village of Tarbert is your entry point into Kintyre & is the start of the Kintyre Way. The Kintyre Way is a 100-mile walking route that weaves its way down the Kintyre Peninsula to Machrihanish – more details below.
The Long and Winding Road
The road, from Tarbert to our base in Campbeltown inspired Paul McCartney to write the song ‘The Long & Winding Road’. This was the last song released by the Beatles before their break up in 1970.
Kintyre was a place McCartney was fond of & called home for many years. He also raised the awareness of the area with his single ‘Mull of Kintyre’. When he released it in 1977, it became one of the biggest selling ‘non-charity’ singles of all time. The video, with the Campbeltown Pipe Band, was filmed on the beach at Saddell Bay, on the east coast of the Kintyre Peninsula.
We found a load of ‘non-golf’ things to see & do in Kintyre (details below) but first up on this golf trip was Dunaverty golf club, at the very south tip of the Kintyre Peninsula.
Dunaverty Golf Club
www.dunavertygolfclub.com
The strong winds didn’t detract from appreciating what a delightful links course this is. The key feature that you cannot miss on the course is Dunaverty Rock. The course was founded in 1889 but the rock obviously dates back a lot longer. The rock, and the castle that once stood here, have seen their fair share of Scottish history. The Dunaverty Massacre of 1647 being the bloodiest.
The Course
As you play up the first hole towards Dunaverty Rock, your sea view gets better and better. The views from the fifth tee are breath-taking, as the ink-black Conieglen Burn flows into the aqua blue waters, where the Irish Sea meets the Atlantic. The views only get better as you head up Mount Zion (10th hole) and onto the 11th tee. There are views out to Sanda Island, Northern Ireland, Ailsa Craig, the Ayrshire coast and the cliffs overlooking the Mull of Kintyre on a clear day.
On paper, this course stretches out to 4,799 yards and is a par 66. Some may consider this too short and pass it by, but I would recommend stopping here. If you haven’t played it before, I suspect the course will have the upper hand. There are some blind shots but they are only blind the first time you play them. I am sure that you will want to play it again and wreak revenge.
There is no protection from the wind here and you could almost double the length of the holes against the wind, when it blows hard. The stretch of holes along the shore line from the third to the eleventh are a delight. I am sure you wouldn’t be the first to wave through the group behind, on the 11th tee, so you can stop to admire the surroundings.
It’s not all about the views here, as there are some tough holes. The 17th is one of the best and a real challenge, into the wind on a breezy day. A good drive down 17 will still leave you a long iron to the green, that sits just over the Conieglen Burn. I have no doubt that this hole will have wrecked some good scores in the past.
Scottish Golfing Legend
The Club has produced some fine golfers over the years but none more so than Scottish golfing legend, Belle Robertson MBE. She has won many international titles in her time but I suspect winning the Curtis Cup for the first time on American soil in 1986, must rank right up there – what a feat!
Dunaverty GC may not get the wider attention that its neighbours at Machrihanish Golf Club and Machrihanish Dunes get but don’t be put off by that. This is an absolute gem of a course and I’m happy to shout about it! Put it on your list and bring your camera.
Machrihanish Golf Club
www.machgolf.com
I didn’t play a lot of links golf as a youngster. So, when I played Machrihanish golf course, in my twenties, for the first time, it was a real treat. I remember walking off the 18th, thinking ‘this is the best course I’ve ever played’.
Jennie Dunn, the professional, will keep you right before your round. Her pro shop sits on one of the most famous first tees in golf. She must be the envy of many pros across the land.
The Course
Your tee shot on the first hole is what everyone talks about here. Yes, it’s fun, it’s intimidating but so is the rest of the course.
At first glance, it may look like a typical 9 out, 9 back sort of links course but it is so much more than that. Some holes are sunk into the dunes, some are more exposed.
The first eight holes head out along the coastline, all at slightly different angles. What this means is that the ever-present wind always appears to be coming from a marginally different direction.
The ninth hole turns you back and from the tenth you are heading back in the opposite direction to the first eight holes. The front nine has one par 3 and eight par 4s, whereas you will encounter two par 5s, three par 3s and four par 4s on the inward nine.
UK Top 50 Course
This course is in the UK’s top 50 courses for a good reason and I’m sure you’ll agree, if you enjoy true links golf. The views match the quality of the course, with Islay, Jura & Gigha all in sight on a clear day. As the course is west facing, you may encounter spectacular sunsets, if you’re lucky.
Machrihanish Dunes Golf Course
machrihanishdunes.com
Machrihanish Dunes lies a few miles north of Machrihanish golf course by car. The course only opened 10 years ago but you would not guess that if you hadn’t been told.
The golf course sits on a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) which means that the area is under protection. You can’t build on it, move or remove anything from it, without the utmost scrutiny and consultation. It also means no use of heavy machinery is allowed, no chemical fertiliser, no laying down of cement cart paths, etc. This course had to be built by hand, the way it used to be.
David McLay-Kidd – course architect
The task that lay ahead of course architect, David McLay-Kidd, must have been daunting, to say the least. The course sits on 260+ acres of dunes, yet McLay-Kidd only disturbed 7 acres in the construction of the course. The majority of this work was to shape the tees and greens.
The fairways were simply mown into shape. Hebridean Black Sheep ‘employed’ to keep the rough down and the bunkers created from natural scraps and eroded areas.
There will be quirks or blind shots that you may not agree with but this course is the result of what nature provided. It is clear that McLay-Kidd couldn’t flatten a sand dune, here and there, to straighten out a hole or to prevent a blind shot or to shorten the walk to the next tee.
The Course
You are sure to get a genuine, warm welcome from Peter the starter. He is knowledgeable of the course and more than happy to keep you right, before you tee off.
The first few holes head out to the most southerly point on the course. This is where you’ll find two of the three Par 3s, back to back, at the fifth & sixth holes, right on the Atlantic. By this stage, you’ll have experienced some large greens, with some serious contours.
The seventh takes you back inland again, before you tackle the longest hole on the course at the eighth. The tenth leads you back to the beachfront, where panoramic views to Islay, Jura & Gigha await.
The final stretch along the stunning coastline is at 15 and 16. The par 5, 16th is stroke index 1, so be sure to keep it on the short stuff. The seventeenth serves up a blind shot, a dog-leg and a water hazard for your penultimate hole. Once you’ve negotiated 17, a gradual climb up the 18th lies ahead, with the green tucked into the left.
This is a great course. You can play it from the back tees and grind it out or you can play from the front and have fun. The weather will always have its part to play here; the course will give you good bounces and bad… but that’s golf!
I suspect you’ll enjoy this course a lot more second time round – check out the ‘stay and play’ packages at the Ugadale & Royal Hotels – both of which are attached to the golf course (details below). Heads up – look out for the unlimited golf deal!
Machrihanish Dunes – Starters Box
A blast from the past…
As I was saying my farewell to Peter the starter, I recognised a face from the past, coming off the course. It was Jimmy Kidd, father of course architect, David McLay-Kidd. I used to work in the golf office, next to Jimmy at Gleneagles Hotel when he was the Estates & Golf Courses manager there. It was a pleasure to see him again, after so many years and to hear his views on Machrihanish Dunes.
Jimmy was playing with one of Scotland’s finest golfers, Belle Robertson MBE, whom I have mentioned above. I watched her walk off the course and realised that she had obviously been carrying her clubs, all the way round… at the age of 82 – what an amazing lady!
Carradale & Tarbert Golf Courses
I had intended to visit Carradale GC, (www.carradalegolf.com) a lovely 9-hole course with picturesque 360 degree views. However, the weather was as bad as we had encountered and we couldn’t see more than 100 yards, never mind the views to Arran! It was the same situation at Tarbert GC (www.tarbertgolfclub.com) on the same day – apologies to both but I’ll get there next time for sure.
It’s Kintyre – it’s time to take time
There is no doubt that Kintyre is not the easiest of places to get to but it is worth it, once you get there. The golf courses are excellent and each present their own challenges.
Everyone will have a view point on what the courses are like; a lot depends on the weather, a lot depends on how you play and adapt. My view is that this is a great golfing destination for a 4-5 day break. However, don’t do what I did and try and cram in too much, in too short a time.
Kintyre is all about slowing down, recharging batteries – switch your phone off and finish that book you got two Christmases ago.
There is good accommodation, great local produce and many things to do. Do something you haven’t done for a while or try something new. Take a look at the list below to fill the non-golfing hours. Enjoy!
Things to do when you’re not golfing in Kintyre
The Kintyre Way
Kintyre Way is a fully waymarked footpath through Kintyre, from Tarbert to Machrihanish. The route is 100 miles long and weaves its way down the peninsula. It’s broken into 7 stages and there is accommodation at the end of each stage. You may find this website useful for more info – www.walkhighlands.co.uk
Kintyre Beaches
The Kintyre Way is for serious walking but if you fancy something shorter and flatter then there are plenty beaches to choose from. This year Machrihanish Bay, on the west coast of Kintyre, came runner up in the BBC Countryfile Magazine Awards 2019 for best beach in UK. So, there’s a good starting point.
Further north on the west coast you’ll find Bellochantuy beach. On the east coast, you’ll find Carradale Bay, Saddell Bay & Torrisdale Bay, all close to each other.
Kintyre Gin/Whisky Tours
Kintyre Gin – The Beinn an Tuirc Distillery
www.kintyregin.com
If Gin is your thing, then a Kintyre Gin Tour might appeal. The Beinn an Tuirc Distillery is north of Campbeltown on the east coast, just south of Carradale. It lies in the Torrisdale Castle Estate. Tours/tastings start from £7.50 – fear not, anyone driving gets to take away their taster! We tried their Kintyre Gin & Kintyre Pink Gin and both get the thumbs up from us!
Kintyre Whisky
Campbeltown itself was once a thriving whisky town in the 1800s, with over 30+ distilleries. A popular mode of transport of getting whisky to Glasgow was by the Glasgow Steamers, large steam powered ships. They would sail down the Clyde several times a day to collect whisky from Campbeltown.
Many Glaswegians would board these boats and sample large quantities of the Campbeltown whisky after disembarking. The inebriated crowd would then make their way back to Glasgow on the Steamers – this is how the word ‘Steaming’ (drunk) originated…. or so the story goes!
Today, only three whisky producers remain in the area and all provide tours & tastings. I’m not suggesting you get ’steaming’ but you may want to try the following whisky tours in the area:
Glen Scotia Tour – www.glenscotia.com
Springbank Whisky – springbank.scot
Glengyle Distillery – kilkerran.scot
Kintyre – Places of Interest
Mull of Kintyre lighthouse & viewing point – www.nlb.org.uk
Skipness Castle – www.historicenvironment.scot
Torrisdale Castle –www.torrisdalecastle.com
Kintyre – Outdoor Sports
Hire bikes from www.carradalebikesandbuggies.co.uk
Pete’s Surf School – www.liveontheedge.co.uk
Kayaking – kayakmajik.co.uk
Kintyre – Indoors
If the weather gets the better of you, there’s always the Campbeltown Picture House. This is no ordinary picture house, as it is one of the oldest purpose-built picture houses in Scotland (1913). It has undergone extensive renovation recently, as part of its centenary, which was completed in 2017 – www.campbeltownpicturehouse.co.uk
Hotels to stay at in Kintyre:
Argyll Arms Hotel, Campbeltown – argyll-arms-gb.
Royal Hotel, Campbeltown – machrihanishdunes.com/stay/the-royal-hotel/
The Ugadale Hotel, Machrihanish – machrihanishdunes.com/stay/the-ugadale-hotel/
The Royal Hotel & The Ugadale Hotels are both connected to Machrihanish Dunes golf course. Make sure you book your golf through them for the best golf/accommodation deals
Here’s a 59 second ‘YouTube’ blog summary!
